6,700 islands dotting the Baltic Sea. The Åland Islands, a little nordic paradise. Did you know that this peaceful archipelago, home to 30,000 people and dotted with charming little houses, was once the spark of an international territorial dispute? And what’s more, behind the resolution was, believe it or not, a single Japanese person. This time on Domain Tours, we visited the Åland Islands, an archipelago with such a curious identity. The ccTLD for the Åland Island is “.ax”.
◆Where are the Åland Islands?
The Åland Islands are an autonomous region of Finland, situated at the entrance to the Baltic Sea, roughly halfway between Sweden and Finland. The archipelago consists of approximately 6,700 islands, but only about 60 are actually inhabited. On this trip, we decided to take a look around Mariehamn, the capital.
The Åland Islands cover a total area of 1,552 square kilometres and have a population of around 30,000 (as of 2024). Its central capital, Mariehamn, covers 20 square kilometres and has a population of about 11,800 (as of 2023). The currency used is the Euro. The official language is Swedish.
※As of July 2025
= Table of Contents =
◆The Ship’s Hidden ‘Time Difference Trick’
◆ [Viewer Discretion Advised] Slipping Past Slugs on the Path for the Dream Nordic Sauna Experience
◆One of Only Two Pirate Flags Left in the World
◆Unsung Japanese Stories and Other Åland Highlights
◆ World’s Most Eco-Friendly Passenger Ferry
◆Finding .ax Around Town
◆Local SIM Speed Test
◆The Ship’s Hidden ‘Time Difference Trick’
To get from Stockholm to Mariehamn in the Åland Islands, we set off aboard a passenger ferry of the Viking Line. Interestingly, the ship that will sail in Japanet Takata’s round-Japan cruise in 2026 is also part of the Viking fleet. The ship departs from the Viking Line Terminal in Stockholm Harbor. It’s just a ten-minute taxi ride from Stockholm Central Station. The taxi driver knew exactly what I meant when I mentioned the “Viking Line”.
We check-in using a self-service ticket machine. The tickets tend to shoot out with some force, so make sure to catch them and hang on.
Our ship is called the Viking Gabriella. It was built in 1992 at Brodosplit in Croatia, originally sailing under the French flag as the “Suez” for Euroway, and its interior is now starting to look a bit aged.
Our cabin had a balcony and the double bed was created by two single beds pushed together. The total came to €660.50, which also covered the fare for three people.
The fridge is stocked with complimentary drinks, which is always a fun perk to lifts the spirits.
We had around six hours aboard the ship, which gave us plenty of time to explore.
From the deck, you can see Gröna Lund, the amusement park located on Djurgården Island in Stockholm.
The ship weaves its way through the countless islands between Sweden and Finland. It reminds me of a Nordic version of the Seto Inland Sea in Japan. Rugged rocky islands and sparse patches of vegetation dot the landscape, creating scenery found only at these high latitudes. You feel like you could watch it forever and never get bored.
The ship had a pet-friendly atmosphere and many passengers had brought along their dogs. Most passengers were elderly couples or families with children, we didn’t see many young couples.
I also checked out the onboard Spa and Sauna area. Seeing men and women relaxing with a glass of wine in hand in the two hot tubs was quite a sight. We weren’t allowed to take photos, so check out this link to see what the area looks like. There were plenty of entertainment areas to help pass the time. For example, a room where kids can play with Lego, rooms for table tennis, soccer and golf, and UFO catchers. There was also a duty-free shop.
While exploring the entertainment area, I came across a haunted house! A frightening black and white photo is on display. Arriving around the 7 p.m. start time, a nearby passenger told me, “You can’t get in now. That 7 p.m. is in Finnish time!”. There is a one-hour time difference between Stockholm and Finland. The ship was operating on Finnish time, so even though our watches read 7 p.m., the ship’s clock was already long past 7 p.m. This ‘time difference trick’ can really catch you off guard until you get used to it.
We had our sights set on a popular seafood restaurant that already had a queue, but after waiting for about 20 minutes, we were met with the painful reality that a reservation was required. If you plan to eat on board, be sure to check whether advance reservations are required. In the end, we went to a nearby bistro-style restaurant that didn’t require a reservation. We ordered the Double Burger (€19.50), stacked with two thick patties, the Grilled Salmon (€26), perfectly capturing the refined taste of authentic Nordic cuisine, and the Grilled Halloumi (€24), a fresh and satisfying option even for vegetarians.
While looking out at the scenery from our cabin, I saw an intriguing island with a curious triangular building. Later, when I asked at the Mariehamn tourist information office, I was told that this was Kobba Klintar, a historic pilot station standing on a small rocky island just off the Mariehamn harbor. In the past, it served as an important base where ships visiting the Åland Islands would take on pilots who would be the navigators responsible for guiding them safely into port. Today, its original role has ended, and it now welcomes visitors as a sightseeing spot with a small museum.
◆ [Viewer Discretion Advised] Slipping Past Slugs on the Path for the Dream Nordic Sauna Experience
After a six-hour ferry journey, we finally arrived in Mariehamn. It’s past 11 p.m. and the unusual brightness of the sky feels almost magical.
The Åland Islands have their own flag. The design is based on the Swedish flag, with a yellow Scandinavian cross on a blue background, overlaid by a red Scandinavian cross, a design commonly seen in the Nordic region. With yellow and red being Finland’s national colors, this flag represents cultural elements from both Sweden and Finland.
We walked through peaceful streets towards the hotel. While walking through the neighborhood, we noticed that every house embodied a “Nordic aesthetic”. The houses feature walls in white or soft colors, with wooden elements that add warmth. The streets are lined with houses that, while free of excessive decoration, are simple and charming.
Every corner could be a postcard, with a serene, refined atmosphere of an upscale residential area, so you can’t help but gaze up at the houses as you stroll along. However, when I glanced down, I noticed little dark blobs scattered across the path in front of me… more than seemed normal. “Dog poop…?” I wondered, but on closer inspection, the blobs were smooth and shiny, with strange horizontal lines running across them. Crouching down for a better look, I discovered to my surprise that it was actually a whole lot of slugs! The peaceful streetscapes of Scandinavia are lined with beautiful houses. Yet at our feet lay a slimy reality, quiet, but abundant!
[Viewer discretion advised]
Carefully, but bravely, we made our way through a roughly 50-meter stretch of slug territory, until we finally arrived at the Hotel Savoy, where we could experience a true Nordic sauna. Strangely, once we were past that slug zone, we didn’t encounter any more groups of slugs anywhere else on the island.
Our room was a “standard twin room”, but it also featured a bunk bed. It might also be a family room. It was clean and comfortable.
The following morning, we decided to try out the hotel’s sauna. Usage is on an alternating basis between men and women. The sauna itself is very similar to Japanese ones, complete with a löyly, where water is poured over heated stones to create steam. There was no one else around, so we had the sauna all to ourselves and could fully relax, experiencing “totonou”, that blissful state where body and mind feel perfectly aligned.
The one difference to Japanese saunas is that there was no cold-water plunge pool. Instead, it seems the local way to relax and find “totonou” after a sauna is to take a swim (wearing a swimsuit) in the adjacent swimming pool. Warm up in the sauna, then plunge into the pool! That’s the local way.
Breakfast at the hotel is plentiful, with bread, scrambled eggs, cheese, fruit, sausage, oat milk, and more. The watermelon was sweet and absolutely delicious.
◆One of Only Two Pirate Flags Left in the World
With full and happy bellies, we now head to the Åland Maritime Museum. Here we can find the oldest bulk carrier “Pommern”, still in its original form. This four-masted sailing ship, built in the early 20th century, still retains its magnificent appearance and you can even explore the interior.
Standing on the deck, you suddenly feel as if you’ve slipped back in time to a voyage from 100 years ago. I thought I might get the chance to climb a mast, as I saw someone up there, but it turned out to be a member of staff doing some maintenance. But apparently, they do hold a mast-climbing event once a year.
When you step inside the vast hold where cargo used to be loaded, it’s truly awe-inspiring. Standing in the still and quiet interior, you feel as if you’ve wandered inside a whale’s belly.
One corner of the ship still contains the living quarters where the sailors ate and slept. Sixteen small beds are packed tightly shoulder to shoulder, perfectly illustrating what “tight quarters” really looks like. Here, they spent months sleeping, eating, laughing, and bravely enduring challenging conditions. The daily life of these sailors, once lived within these narrow, swaying walls, seems to hang heavy in the air.
On part of the bridge leading to the pier, there was a row of plaques engraved with names. Looking closer, we see the list includes names of global corporations such as KPMG and ABB. It seems that this bridge was funded through donations, with the names of supporters commemorated along it.
The adjoining museum also housed one of only two genuine pirate flags (skull and crossbones) still in existence worldwide. Apparently, this flag made its way to Åland from the North African Mediterranean coast in the early 19th century. The material is made of cotton and may originally have been used in the Caribbean and the West Indies. This skull-and-crossbones design is also known as the Jolly Roger. By the early 18th century, it had become the standard flag of pirates, its white skull on a black background sending a clear message to all who saw it: Surrender or Die.
◆Unsung Japanese Stories and Other Åland Highlights
We visited the tourist information centre in Mariehamn. On a sudden whim, I decided to ask one of the staff if there was any connection between the Åland Islands and Japan. He thought for a moment and then replied, “Nitobe”. Yes, Nitobe Inazō. He is the author of Bushido, once the face of the 5,000 yen note, and an internationally acclaimed figure that Japan takes great pride in.
Source: 5,000 Yen Note : Bank of Japan
In 1920 a dispute arose regarding the Åland Islands – the islanders themselves wanted to reunite with Sweden, but Finland saw it as part of their territory. Nitobe Inazō, Under-Secretary-General of the League of Nations, was involved in resolving this issue. In the end, the League granted sovereignty to Finland, with several guarantees: they would keep their autonomy, preserve the Swedish language, and the islands would remain neutral and demilitarized. The arbitration over the Åland Islands, with Nitobe Inazō’s important involvement, is still highly regarded today, allowing Åland to retain its own parliament and administration. Though not an independent country, these islands have preserved their own culture and institutions. And at the heart of this achievement was one Japanese figure, who worked toward a peaceful solution.
Nitobe Inazō, seated in the center
Source: TV Tokyo
Actually, the current CEO of ICANN, the international non-profit organization that manages internet addresses, is from the Åland Islands. I showed a photo of him on my phone to the man at the tourist center and asked if he knew him. “Sorry, I have no idea… but you can tell from his name that he’s from the Åland Islands!”, he replied. While the tourist center’s resident expert didn’t know him, it’s pretty amazing that a tiny island could produce the CEO of ICANN, the global authority on internet domains.
Leaving the tourist information centre behind, we headed for lunch at the popular local café-restaurant, Svarta Katten. It’s a small house with a terrace for outdoor seating.
The handwritten menu adds to its charm.
We ordered the decadent Salmon Mix Toast (€12.40) topped with plenty of salmon, the simple Tuna Mix Sandwich (€7.80) filled with moist tuna and vegetables, and the Shrimp Mix Sandwich (€8.20), featuring plump shrimp as the star, minus any mayonnaise. Simple yet delicious flavors that bring out the best in each ingredient. By the way, it’s not a cat cafe so don’t expect any cats.
But I did come across a cat happily strolling through the town, wearing a little collar.
Quite by chance, we came across the Viking Line headquarters while out walking. The company is headquartered, not in the capital Helsinki, nor in the tourist city of Stockholm, but in Mariehamn on the Åland Islands, taking advantage of the region’s autonomy, which exempts it from the EU VAT (value-added tax) system despite being part of an EU member state. Stopping at Mariehamn allows ships to sell duty-free items, boosting onboard sales of alcohol, perfume, and other goods. This is why the company chooses to base its headquarters there, as well as use it as a port of call.
A wooden contemporary sculpture, “Man Holding His Head” (inspired by the classic Self-Reflection/Thinker style), installed in the center of Mariehamn. Around town and in the parks, art by local artists can be found everywhere, popular with both locals and visitors as interactive pieces where people can sit, pose, and take photos.
Can you guess what this is? It’s an elevator control panel. You see them a lot in Finland. “Hiss” means elevator in Swedish.
A flashy, heavily modified car sped past at breakneck speed. It was actually an ambulance. This yellow-and-green color scheme is not just a design choice; it serves a safety purpose in line with European standards, making it immediately recognizable as an ambulance and highly visible day and night.
◆World’s Most Eco-Friendly Passenger Ferry
Time to return to Stockholm. On our return voyage, we boarded a different ship, the Viking Glory.
This new ferry, which only entered service in 2021, exudes a chic, stylish atmosphere. With its subdued lighting and tasteful interior, the space feels refined and sophisticated.
It was a rainy day, so there weren’t many people on the deck.
What surprised me the most is that this ship is called ‘the world’s most environmentally friendly large passenger ferry.’ Equipped with cutting-edge energy-efficient systems and advanced emission controls, it’s truly a ship built for the future of the oceans. We booked a sea-view room for four, with a private toilet and shower. This room was €76.50 (incl. the fare) for three people.
We booked dinner at a buffet style restaurant. At €138 for three, the room ended up cheaper than our meal. The buffet had Nordic salmon, roast beef, and even caviar! As you’d expect from a newer ship, the offerings are luxurious.
Unlimited wine and beer were also included.
The restaurant has a breathtaking ocean view. Naturally, the windows were spotless, giving us a magnificent view.
The buffet operates on a timed schedule, and our reservation was for 3 p.m. Ah, but is this 3 p.m. Stockholm time? Or Finnish time? Determined not to repeat the mix-up from our outbound journey, we made our way to the restaurant at 3 p.m. Finnish time (2 p.m. in Stockholm). This time, we were met with a warm smile from the staff and the reassuring words, “Yes, you’re on time.” It seems like the schedule is set according to the time zone the ship is currently sailing through. Though a bit confusing, it’s all part of the charm of traveling by ship across differing time zones.
◆Finding .ax Around Town
Björkkö, providing services for senior members of the community since 2017.
A racing event called The Tall Ships Races Mariehamn. Sponsors include Viking Line and other local and regional organizations.
A hair salon called “Hair by Julia”.
A billboard announcing the football match between IFK Mariehamn and FC Haka.
◆Local SIM Speed Test
We checked the local internet speed using eSIM Ubigi. We measured a speed of 440 Mbps.
